There are only two things left to do; first you need to remove the photo layer that’;s still on the copper. Just use some nail polish remover or acetone to remove that layer, when you’;re done the copper should look shinier. Now just drill the holes you need, you can do this with a engraving tool, Dremel, or drill. The most common sizes of drill bits used in PCB’;s are 0.8mm 1mm and 1.5mm so use the right sized bit for the hole you need.
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You can leave the PCB clear but it can corrode without any protection, to prevent this apply a soldering agent called flux which you can get this at the local electronics store. When you are finished you can begin placing the components and start soldering.
I hope you’;ve learned from my guide and that you succeeded in making a PCB. And in order to make everything just a bit easier, I’;ve also created a movie so you have a little moving guide to see how the steps go, you can get the movie in 2 flavors.
| Video File | File Size | Video Format |
| High quality | 28MB | Windows Media 9 |
| Low quality | 7MB | Windows Media 9 |
5 comments
Just buy whatever you are trying to make new off the shelf at Walmart! Why are you nerds trying to "make stuff" anyways?
Just get the board made professionally. It's not expensive these days, and cheaper than keeping the etching chemicals and buying a UV light (plus experimenting with the exposure time).
There's plenty of small outfits that will do one offs and small volume PCBs for you.
Can go simpler than the photo-sensitive layer + UV light route. Back in the day we had bare copper, used an exacto to cut adhesive circles and strips and stuck em where we wanted traces. Dip in acid, clean, remove tape and you're done. Board w copper + tape + acid = PCB. Biggest danger was leaving tiny gaps between pieces of tape allowing the acid to cut off one part from the next.
So… Why is the last picture in each of the series of a giant Pokemon with the word Mudkip next to it?
some pages are not fully updated
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